Vadinin bittiği tapınağın göründüğü o an
Kırmızı-turuncu rengi kayalıkların arasına oyulmuş taştan bir şehir Petra. Varlığı nesilden nesile kulaktan kulağa aktarılmış; gerçekliği ise 1812 yılında İsveçli kaşif Johann Ludwig Burckhardt tarafından yeniden keşfedilene kadar bir mit olarak kalmış-saklı şehir.
Gül renkli şehir benzetmesi ise yine John William'ın Petra'ya yazdığı sonesinden kalan bir yafta aslında. Gerçekten de, sabahın ilk saatlerinde hiç bitmeyen bir dehliz gibi bana yol veren sarı renkli kayalar, güneş tepeye ulaştığında turuncuya, akşam ise gül kurusu ile pembe arası bir renge bürünüyor.
Ürdün askeri
Ürdün, komşularının aksine hiçbir ciddi doğal kaynağa sahip değil. Ne petrolü var, ne doğalgazı, ne ekilecek toprağı, ne bir yeşilliği.. Bir de bunun üstüne, Filistin'den, Lübnan'dan, Suriye'den, Irak'tan kaçan ve sayısı milyonlarla ifade edilen mülteciye ev sahipliği yapıyor. Lakin etrafınıza baktığınızda ne zengin, ne fakir, ortahalli bir hayat görüyorsunuz. Şaşırtıcı.
Turizmi bir kenara ayırısak, ülke aslında geçimini kendisini çevreleyen topraklardaki bitmek tükenmek bilmeyen çatışmadan sağlıyor. Ürdün, tüm bu itiş-kakışın arasında bir güven limanı tesis edip; sorunlu körfez sermayesinin, Amerikan üslerinin, ciddi eğitim kurumlarının ve hülasa kendine huzur arayan herkesin buluştuğu bir kavşak vazifesi görüyor.
Günü, dünya üzerindeki tüm karaların en alçak noktası olan, Ölüdeniz'de tamamlıyorum. Göl deniz seviyesinin yaklaşık 400 metre altında kalıyor. Su o kadar tuzlu ki, içerisinde rahatça oturup (-evet oturup) gazetenizi okuyabiliyorsunuz. Etrafım gölün şifalı çamurundan medet uman turistlerle dolu.
Ölüdeniz'de gün batımıGün batıyor, Nabateanlar zamanında Petra'da geçen bir roman yazdığımı hayal ediyorum. Gözlerim suyun öteyanındaki Filistin ve İsrail'e doğru dalıp gidiyor. Bitmek bilmeyen çatışmaların altında dinin değil, kapitalin yattığına bir kez daha ikna oluyorum.
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